
Is your coffee only fair?
At what point does “fair trade” become a rip-off? Trade blogger Scott Lincicome got me thinking about that with his post Monday about the “fair trade” movement and the dark liquid that Starbucks sells. Scott and I don’t agree about everything (I go for a large decaf with a couple shots of raspberry syrup, whereas his tastes run to venti triple skim lattes), but I follow along with what he said Monday.
Like Scott, I have tended to assume that the “fair trade” movement is a gimmick for selling overpriced coffee, but have not felt strongly enough about it to really look into it. I have also been in numerous stores that purport to sell “fair trade” knick-knacks from developing countries, insinuating that any knick-knack not sold by them is somehow not “fair” or profiting only big multinational corporations. It’s sort of being global while being anti-globalization. Notice that I put “fair trade” in quotes. That’s because so many people use it meaning very different things. Unions and politicians use it to justify trade restrictions, as if stopping trade is somehow “fairer” than expanding trade.
Scott’s post prompted me to look at what Starbucks has to say about “fair trade”, and it turns out that the company is talking about FairTrade instead. Quite different, though there is similarity in spelling and pronunciation. FairTrade is an organization in Germany that authorizes use of its name and logo for a fee – and fees apply to both big international companies and farmers in the developing world. Starbucks pays a healthy licensing fee and coffee coops in Indonesia pay a lower certification fee. What it amounts to is that FairTrade establishes production standards for farmers, sets minimum prices said to guarantee production to those standards, and charges retailers for the privilege of saying the products they sell meet those standards.
FairTrade strikes me as similar to the folks who thought up the Green Dot environmental symbol, which was sold as a guarantee of environmental quality and become indispensable to marketing in Western Europe. It also made the Green Dot organization immensely rich and powerful. FairTrade seems to follow the same pattern. That’s not to say FairTrade is useless.
FairTrade has established product standards for bananas, cocoa, coffee, dried and fresh fruit, fruit juices, herbs and spices, honey, nuts, oil seeds, quinoa, rice, cane sugar, soybeans and pulses, tea and grapes for wine – as well as a few non-food products: gold(!), flowers and plants, seed cotton, balls for sports, and timber.
Scott quoted extensively from an op-ed piece written for the NationalPost.com in Canada by Lawrence Solomon, owner and founder of GreenBeanery, a roaster and coffee shop in Toronto. Mr. Solomon, too, is in the “fair trade” business, but he refuses to use FairTrade or other competing operations and makes compelling arguments why. He quotes a study of “fair trade” by scholars at the University of Hohenheim in Germany, who have followed closely the growth of FairTrade and its competitors:
The study, which followed hundreds of Nicaraguan coffee farmers over a decade, concluded that farmers producing for the fair-trade market “are more often found below the absolute poverty line than conventional producers.
“Over a period of 10 years, our analysis shows that organic and organic-fair trade farmers have become poorer relative to conventional producers.”
Solomon and the Hohenheim study cite the certification fees as a prime reason for this counter-inutitive conclusion. While the certification fees may seem low to us, they are exorbitant for a subsistence farmer – and the costs of improving quality standards can seem other-worldly. FairTrade, according to its website, offers subsidies for standards improvement, but I am not in position to say these subsidies are adequate. The Hohenheim study suggests they are not. Thus, the FairTrade system – which claims to help poor farmers in the developing world – actually discriminates against the poorest farmers in those same countries, but probably boosts the income of more well-to-do producers who can afford their fees. In an aside, Solomon notes that the coffee produced by subsistence farmers is organic by default – they can’t afford the chemicals and fertilizers that would make them ineligible for an organic label, but they also can’t afford the cost of getting somebody to come certify their product as organic.
It gets worse, says Solomon:
… it’s an open secret that the certification process is lax and almost impossible to police, making it little more than a high-priced honour system. Although the certification associations have done their best to tighten flaws in the system, farmers and middlemen who want to get around the system inevitably do, bagging unearned profits. Those who remain scrupulous and follow the onerous and costly regulations … lose out….
There’s more, but you should read them for yourselves. In sum, FairTrade and its competitors are simply selling a bill of goods, or perhaps a label that makes unthinking companies and their customers feel good for a moment about spending an absurd amount for a cup of coffee. In Hawaii we have a word for that kind of business. It’s a “shibai”. It comes from Japan, where it means a play or dramatic performance. But in Hawaii, shibai connotes untrustworthy, less than truthful, perhaps a scam.